As some other people mentioned, using the right 
primer is important...it has to be something that 
will grip onto the polyurethane resin.  Once the 
primer is on, then any paint that can adhere to 
the primer (pretty much anything) is OK.

But first make sure to wash the resin kit well 
since if there's any releasing agent left over, 
primer or paint may just peel off (that's really 
sad after a detailed paint job).  Also, if some 
surfaces are too smooth, you may also have paint 
peeling problems even if there isn't any 
releasing agent.  In such a case you should sand 
down the surface with a fine grit sand paper like 
1000-2000), making sure not to obsure the details.

If the primer is dark, you may want to add a base 
layer of a light color paint like white, so that 
light colored paint that don't have much opacity 
don't get overshadowed by the primer.

I make both resin and plastic model kits and I 
like to use Gunze Sangyo surfacer for the 
primer.  The white kind makes painting easier 
(since it makes a white base) but I find its hard 
and glossy surface to be harder to handle so I 
always use the grey surfacer (Mr. Surfacer 1000 
spray cans).

When painting, I've found the ultimate method is 
to use Gunze Sangyo lacquer paints for the main 
colors as they dry quickly when airbrushing.  But 
the big benefit is that you can do details or 
weathering with Tamiya enamels, and if you make a 
mistake, you can wipe it off with the Tamiya 
thinner and not damage the base lacquer layer at 
all (good for putting thinned dark colors to 
emphasize lines and tricky areas like the eyes).

Epoxy is the strongest glue to use for resin 
kits.  Superglue is OK but it's sort of fragile 
to shear stresses.  Make sure to sand down any 
contacts to maximize bonding.  I also drill in 
brass rods in any major connection to strengthen 
it.

Good luck and I hope that helps!