I haven't been making fancels as long or as well
as Requiem, but I made some experiences, too:
¤Long hair? Tie it up to a ponytail or better, a
knot. My hair hung down into the paint, I didn't
notice, moved my head to curse the dog and WOOSH
dragged the hair through the wet paint.
¤In closed draws or such, the paint dries slower.
Put in into the ventilated room unless you have
cats, foxes, dogs,...
¤Poster Paint reminds the newbie of acrylics. DO
NOT USE IT! When it dries, it crumbles off and/or
lifts itself from the cel so that there are
spaces between the cel and the paint which looks
really ugly.
¤Nail varnish dissolvant works for me, always, on
all materials. FOR REMOVAL!!
¤Wear old clothes. I ask sympathy for all my dead
shirts killed by dried acrylics. j/k
¤Stone/Wood paint is fine. It dries quickly and
is more fluent than acrylics, I think it's the
best.
It's cheaper, too
¤Dry paint isn't always really dry. Let it dry at
least an hour or MORE if you really wanna be
sure. It can still stick to
scanners/paper/whatever when it feels dry to you.
¤You cannot mix the very same color twice unless
you're using a pipette. Better mix too much than
too little at a time and have pots to your avail
so you can store the rest.
¤Zel isn't blue but turquoise :)
¤Transparent sheets are expensive, so ask at your
school for them. I dunno, I pay like a fifth of a
buck for one sheet (Din A3). Art schools sure
have them.
¤Aplogies to Belgians: I said earlier, Schleiper
had cels like the ones we collect, punched and
with those measures. NO, you can have a huge
sheet cut to your desired size, so brilliant!
(f*ck them)
¤Why not draw a douga when making originals? But
when you scan and mirror them, remember the
scan's size is not the print size and "fit to
page" won't mean it's exactly the size of the
original.
¤Printing the lines with an inkjet onto the cel
is a bad idea. I dunno about laser printers, but
inkjets make the ink run and give it a blurry
effect, scew that option..
Gotta go take some money to the post office...
bai.. |